Water Heater Repair

Under 8 years old, usually repair — most failures at that age are inexpensive parts like thermocouples, elements, or valves. Past 8-10 years, or if the tank itself is leaking, replacement is usually the smarter spend, and we'll tell you which honestly.

Top leaks are usually fittings or the temperature-and-pressure relief valve — repairable. Water from the bottom of the tank means internal tank failure, which can't be repaired. Shut off the cold inlet valve and give us a call.

It's a sacrificial metal rod that corrodes so your tank doesn't. Replacing a spent anode rod every few years is the single cheapest way to extend a water heater's life.

Electric: check the breaker. Gas: check that the pilot is lit and the gas valve is on. If those look right and you still have no hot water, the fix needs a technician — thermocouples, elements, and gas valves aren't DIY territory.

Occasional air after utility work is normal and purges itself. Persistent air from hot taps only can mean the anode rod is reacting with your water and gassing — a known hard-water issue locally, and an easy fix.

Yes — including blower and vent-pressure faults that make them shut down. Venting problems are a safety issue, so don't keep resetting a unit that keeps cutting out.

Tank water heaters typically last 8-12 years — longer with softened water and regular anode-rod changes, shorter with our hard water untreated. Tankless units commonly run 20+ years with annual descaling. An old unit with a leaking tank is the clearest replace signal; an old unit with a failed part is often still just a repair.